Overhead in Bed

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Executive Summary:

1. DRILL HOLES IN CEILING.

2. ATTACH CEILING TRACK.

3. HOOK OVERHEAD IN BED TO CEILING TRACK.

4. LIE DOWN, LOOK UP.

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As power drilling seems to be a dad-thing, installation of an Overhead in Bed Viewing Platform might just be an excellent occasion to ring him up and enlist his assistance just like you did when you needed help with that eighth-grade science project or fixing your broken bicycle. Installation of OHIB is home-work he can help you with.

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Overhead in Bed with Dark Chamber Drape comes assembled in the box, so all that needs to be done is to drill a few holes in the ceiling and affix the track.

PUT IT WHERE YOU WANT IT. LAY OVERHEAD IN BED AND THE CEILING TRACK ON THE BED AND APPROXIMATE THEIR POSITION.

Decide which side of the bed you'll be sliding Overhead in Bed off to and where on the bed you'll be lying beneath it, then mark-for-drilling the first hole into the ceiling above the end of the track where you have laid it on the bed. Measure this mark in the ceiling at ~6.5 inches from the wall. [The acrylic board is 15 inches wide, and because it has to make contact with a wall or a headboard to steady it, the drilled holes should not be farther out than the middle of the board. If the holes are farther out than the middle of the board, the platform will move around in free space like a playground swing. Overhead in Bed needs the stability of a wall or a headboard to lean against, so to make sure of this, drill your holes not more than 6.5 inches from the wall.]

DRILL SMALL PILOT HOLES INTO THE CEILING.

NB: A beach towel on the bed will catch sheetrock particulate that falls from the drilling.

Mark the first hole in the ceiling at the end of the ceiling track that's lying on the bed. Mark the next hole to be drilled nineteen inches sideways from the first hole, as this is the distance from cable to cable. Evenly space the remaining holes to be drilled. [As the ceiling track extends from 51” to 97”, you’ll want to gauge the track’s length. You may not need to use all six brackets. Because the ceiling track has a smooth action, put a piece of tape on the ceiling-side so it won’t slide apart when Overhead in Bed is pushed off to the side of the bed.]

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NB: Mark each hole exactly the same distance from the wall as the other holes. This is important. If the holes are not in alignment then it will be difficult to snap the ceiling track into the brackets. The holes have to be in a straight line so the brackets will be in a straight line so the ceiling track will easily snap into the brackets.

First use a small, thin drill bit. The points of drill bits are blunt, so drilling small pilot holes is prudent because it prevents the drill-bit-drift of a fat bit which can slip and mis-position your intended hole where you didn't want it.

Change the small, thin drill bit to a wider diameter drill bit and enlarge the pilot holes, then do it again with a bigger drill bit and again to open a hole that's 7/16ths of an inch to accommodate the 7/16ths width of the SNAP Toggle's U-shaped metal brace that goes through the ceiling's sheetrock. You've already centered the holes, so not having a 7/16th drill bit isn't an issue. Wiggle your largest bit in a circle till the hole is big enough to accommodate the SNAP Toggle's 7/16th of an inch wide pivoting metal brace.

NB: Avoid wooden joists. One BB SNAP Toggle anchor supports 356 pounds in typical 5/8ths thick ceiling sheetrock. This enables placement of a heavy load anywhere in a ceiling. You may want to use a stud finder so you won't drill into a wooden ceiling joist. If you hit wood, drill a hole to either side of the ceiling joist.

SLIDE THE SNAP TOGGLES UP THROUGH THE HOLES IN THE CEILING AND FASTEN THE BRACKETS.

Here's Toggler's installation link: https://youtu.be/SC1ZuxuZ2PU?si=qMNfCMdJhz8HNUTu

Slide the metal brace up into the hole.

Pull the plastic legs down so their ends are flush, then push the threaded ring-cap up the length of the Snap Toggle's plastic legs to a firm grip against the ceiling. Use a little force to make it snug.

Snap the plastic legs off.

Place a bracket over the hole, spring-tab side to the wall: A brackets on one side of the sliding track, B brackets on the other side of the sliding track.

THE A BRACKETS SNAP ONTO THE THINNER WIDTH OF THE CEILING TRACK.

THE B BRACKETS SNAP ONTO THE WIDER WIDTH OF THE CEILING TRACK.

Using the hex wrench, insert a screw through the bracket's hole - with its spring-tab toward the wall - and into the SNAP Toggle's plastic cap and metal brace which now sits topside of the ceiling sheetrock, twisting the hex wrench all the way through the screw’s looseness until the screw and bracket are tight against the ceiling sheetrock.

LIFT AND SECURE THE CEILING TRACK INTO THE BRACKETS.

You have drilled all holes the same distance from the wall and the secured brackets are in alignment.

Hook the ceiling track's channel into the metal lip of the brackets then push the track's back channel onto the plastic spring latches of the brackets, snapping the ceiling track into place.

If the ceiling track doesn’t snap into the brackets, make sure that all the brackets are in alignment. If one is out of alignment, loosen its screw, lightly slap the edge of the bracket with a hammer to brush it into place the same distance from the wall as the other brackets, and parallel with them, and re-tighten the screw.

CLASP THE S-HOOKS OF OVERHEAD IN BED's RETRACTORS INTO THE SLIDERS OF THE CEILING TRACK.

Raise and lower Overhead in Bed. Tighten the big silver screws of the retractors to adjust for weight.

NB: Do not loosen a retractor’s screw such that the screw will fall out. There’s a thin curved washer beneath the screw which makes replacing the screw difficult.

LIE DOWN, GRASP OVERHEAD IN BED's ROPES, SLIDE THE APPARATUS INTO POSITION ABOVE YOU, THEN LOWER THE BOARD AND ITS CANOPY.

NB: Pull the ropes, not the drape. Pulling down on the fabric [especially if there's hard tension set on the retractors] might cause a light-leak by loosening the hold of the velcro that affixes the drape to the plexiglas board. If this happens, push the velcro to re-seal and eliminate the light-leak.

Put a book onto the board and click on the LEDs to illuminate it. Drag the black poly-satin scarf over the book to eliminate light leaks. Or place your smartphone into the cut-out of the blackout foam sheet. It helps to have earbuds.

NB: Make sure to use the foam blackout sheet, otherwise the smartphone’s gorilla glass will slide off the acrylic like an ice cube.